Cross Stitch Fabric Count Guide: Aida, Evenweave & Linen Explained
Quick answer: Fabric count means the number of threads (or holes) per inch. 14-count Aida has 14 squares per inch and is the most popular choice for cross stitch. Higher count = smaller stitches = more detail. Lower count = bigger stitches = faster work. A 100x100 stitch design on 14-count becomes 7.1" x 7.1"; the same design on 18-count becomes 5.6" x 5.6". Full comparison below. Calculate your design size with the cross stitch fabric calculator.
My first cross stitch kit came with 18-count Aida. I could barely see the holes. My second kit was 11-count, and the finished piece looked blocky — like pixel art from a 1990s video game. The count changes everything about the experience and the result, and nobody explained that to me until I'd already bought five pieces of the wrong fabric.
Here's the guide I needed on day one.
What Fabric Count Means
The count number tells you how many stitches fit in one inch of fabric. On Aida cloth, each "count" is one square — one place where you'd make a cross stitch. On evenweave and linen, the count refers to threads, and you typically stitch over two threads, so the effective stitch count is half the thread count.
| Concept | Aida | Evenweave / Linen |
|---|---|---|
| Count refers to | Squares per inch | Threads per inch |
| Stitches per inch | Same as count | Count / 2 (stitching over 2 threads) |
| Example: 28-count | 28 stitches per inch | 14 stitches per inch |
Cross Stitch Fabric Count Comparison Chart
Here's how the most common counts compare in stitch size, design size, and difficulty.
| Fabric | Count | Stitches/Inch | Stitch Size | Best For | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aida 11 | 11 | 11 | Large | Kids, beginners, quick projects | Easy |
| Aida 14 | 14 | 14 | Medium | Most patterns, general use | Easy-Medium |
| Aida 16 | 16 | 16 | Medium-Small | Detail work, moderate experience | Medium |
| Aida 18 | 18 | 18 | Small | Fine detail, experienced | Medium-Hard |
| Aida 22 | 22 | 22 | Very small | Ultra-fine work, very experienced | Hard |
| Evenweave 25 | 25 | 12.5 | Medium | Similar to 12-count Aida | Medium |
| Evenweave 28 | 28 | 14 | Medium | Equivalent to 14-count Aida | Medium |
| Evenweave 32 | 32 | 16 | Medium-Small | Equivalent to 16-count Aida | Medium-Hard |
| Linen 28 | 28 | 14 | Medium | Traditional look, experienced | Medium-Hard |
| Linen 32 | 32 | 16 | Medium-Small | Fine detail, experienced | Hard |
| Linen 36 | 36 | 18 | Small | Very fine work, expert | Hard |
| Linen 40 | 40 | 20 | Very small | Miniatures, expert level | Very Hard |
For anyone over 40 or stitching in low light, 11-count or 14-count Aida is the practical choice. Pride won't finish a piece that's too small to see.
How Count Affects Design Size
This is the calculation every stitcher needs. The same pattern produces very different finished sizes depending on your fabric count.
Formula: Design size = stitch count / stitches per inch
Here's a 140 x 200 stitch design (a common medium-sized pattern) on different counts:
| Fabric | Stitches/Inch | Finished Width | Finished Height | Total Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Aida 11 | 11 | 12.7" | 18.2" | 231 sq in |
| Aida 14 | 14 | 10.0" | 14.3" | 143 sq in |
| Aida 16 | 16 | 8.8" | 12.5" | 110 sq in |
| Aida 18 | 18 | 7.8" | 11.1" | 87 sq in |
| Evenweave 28 | 14 | 10.0" | 14.3" | 143 sq in |
| Linen 32 | 16 | 8.8" | 12.5" | 110 sq in |
| Linen 36 | 18 | 7.8" | 11.1" | 87 sq in |
Adding fabric margin: Always add 3–4 inches to each side of the design for framing and handling. So a 10" x 14.3" design on 14-count needs a piece of fabric at least 16" x 20.3" — round up to 17" x 21" for comfort.
The cross stitch fabric calculator converts any stitch count to physical dimensions on any count fabric, including margin calculations.
Aida Cloth: The Standard
Aida is the fabric most people start with. It's a stiff, gridded fabric where each "block" is a clearly defined square. You stitch into the holes between blocks.
Pros:
- Easy to count — the grid is visible and obvious
- Available everywhere in every color
- Inexpensive ($3–8 per piece)
- Stiff enough to stitch without a hoop (at higher counts, a hoop helps)
- Clear holes make needle placement intuitive
- The grid is visible in the finished piece (especially at lower counts)
- Limited color range compared to linen
- Feels stiff and "crafty" rather than fabric-like
- Difficult to do fractional stitches (quarter and three-quarter stitches)
- Not ideal for pieces that mix cross stitch with surface embroidery
| Aida Count | Best Uses |
|---|---|
| 11-count | Kids' kits, quick gifts, bookmarks, ornaments |
| 14-count | General cross stitch, most published patterns |
| 16-count | Moderately detailed patterns, sampler reproductions |
| 18-count | Detailed patterns, realistic designs, small finished size |
| 22-count | Miniatures, ultra-detailed work, very experienced stitchers |
Evenweave: The Middle Ground
Evenweave (brand names: Lugana, Jobelan, Brittney) is a uniform-weave fabric where the thread count is consistent in both directions. You stitch over two threads, so the "working count" is half the thread count.
Pros:
- Smoother look than Aida — the grid disappears into the fabric
- Easier fractional stitches (quarter stitches are clean)
- More fabric-like drape than Aida
- Available in beautiful colors and subtle variegated shades
- Good for mixed-technique pieces (cross stitch + backstitch + specialty stitches)
- Harder to count than Aida (no obvious grid, just threads)
- More expensive ($8–15 per piece)
- Requires good light and possibly magnification at higher counts
- Can intimidate beginners
Linen: The Traditional Choice
Linen is the original cross stitch fabric. It's been used for counted thread work for centuries. Unlike Aida and evenweave, linen has a naturally uneven thread thickness — some threads are thicker, some thinner. This gives finished pieces a subtle organic texture.
Pros:
- Beautiful, heirloom quality appearance
- Natural texture adds character
- Ages well over decades
- Traditional and historically authentic
- Excellent for sampler reproductions and fine needlework
- Uneven threads make counting harder
- Most expensive option ($12–30 per piece)
- Requires good lighting and patience
- Not beginner-friendly
- Varies between brands and dye lots
Linen wrinkles — accept this now and you'll enjoy the fabric. Ironing or pressing with starch helps, but linen has a relaxed texture that's part of its charm. Fighting it is a losing battle.
Choosing the Right Count for Your Project
Here's my decision framework.
| Situation | Recommended Count |
|---|---|
| First cross stitch project | 14-count Aida |
| Gift that needs to look polished | 28-count evenweave |
| Kids' project | 11-count Aida |
| Detailed realistic design (100K+ stitches) | 18-count Aida or 36-count linen |
| Christmas ornament | 18-count Aida (small finished size) |
| Framed sampler | 32-count linen or evenweave |
| Bookmark | 14 or 18-count Aida |
| Wall piece (visible from 3+ feet) | 14-count — fine detail is invisible at distance |
| Miniature (dollhouse, tiny frame) | 22-count Aida or 40-count linen |
Thread Count and Floss Usage
Higher counts use less floss per stitch because each stitch is smaller. But more stitches fit per inch, so the total floss per square inch is roughly the same. The real variable is how many strands you use.
| Fabric Count | Strands of Floss | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 11-count Aida | 3 strands | Full coverage, chunky stitches |
| 14-count Aida | 2 strands | Standard coverage |
| 16-count Aida | 2 strands | Standard to slightly thin |
| 18-count Aida | 1–2 strands | 1 for thin coverage, 2 for full |
| 22-count Aida | 1 strand | Full coverage with 1 strand |
| 28-count evenweave | 2 strands | Over 2 threads |
| 32-count evenweave | 1–2 strands | Over 2 threads |
| 36-count linen | 1 strand | Over 2 threads |
For yardage estimation per color, check the fabric yardage guide — it covers thread and fabric needs across multiple sewing disciplines.
FAQ
What is the best Aida count for beginners?
14-count. The holes are clearly visible, the stitches are a comfortable size, and 90% of published patterns are designed for 14-count. 11-count is even easier to see but produces larger, blockier designs. Start with 14-count, and if you find it too small, drop to 11 for your first project, then come back to 14.
Can I use a different fabric count than the pattern recommends?
Yes, but the finished size will change. A pattern designed for 14-count will be smaller on 18-count and larger on 11-count. Use the formula: stitch count / stitches per inch = finished size. You may also need to adjust the number of floss strands — 2 strands on 14-count looks right, but 2 strands on 18-count might be too thick.
How do I convert between Aida count and evenweave count?
Multiply the Aida count by 2 to get the equivalent evenweave/linen count (stitching over 2 threads). 14-count Aida = 28-count evenweave. 16-count Aida = 32-count evenweave. 18-count Aida = 36-count linen. The finished stitch sizes are identical.
What does "stitching over 2" mean?
On evenweave and linen, each cross stitch spans 2 fabric threads in each direction instead of 1 block. You bring the needle up, skip one thread, and go back down. This creates stitches equivalent in size to Aida at half the thread count. You can also stitch over 1 thread (called "petit point") for very fine work, but it's unusual for standard cross stitch.
How much fabric do I need for a pattern?
Calculate the design size (stitch count / stitches per inch), then add 6–8 inches total (3–4 inches per side for margins). A 140 x 200 stitch pattern on 14-count is 10" x 14.3" — buy fabric at least 16" x 20". Most cross stitch fabric is sold in pre-cut pieces (12" x 18", 15" x 18", etc.) or by the yard. The cross stitch fabric calculator figures this out for any pattern and count.
Next Steps
- Calculate exact fabric dimensions for your pattern with the cross stitch fabric calculator — it handles any count and adds margins automatically.
- Need yardage for other sewing projects? The fabric yardage guide covers everything from garments to curtains.
- Explore fabric types for other crafts in the yarn weight guide — understanding material weights applies across all fiber arts.